Pork belly with figs and pistachios at A Voce Columbus (Photograph: Marlene Rounds)

According to Jay Cheshes, A Voce Columbus “charms without ever trying too hard,” and garners four out of five stars. [TONY]

The Upper West Side’s farm-forward Recipe gets four stars for being a neighborhood restaurant that serves “reasonably priced, homespun dishes that are executed with sophistication.” [TONY] Read more »

Daurade served tableside at Oceana; Photograph: Jeffrey Gurwin

Jay Cheshes casts his line into the relocated Oceana and only comes up with three stars, writing, “The kitchen fares best when it sticks to the basics.” [TONY]

At the two-star Pan-Latin Agua Dulce, the generic food “is as inauthentic as it is spread geographically thin.” [TONY] Read more »

The salmon ceviche at Agua Dulce (Photo: Roxana Marroquin)

The following restaurants are scheduled to open by July 29. As always, call ahead before heading out, as opening dates can change.

Umi Nom Kuma Inn chef-owner King Phojanakong and co-chef Soulayphet Schwader branch out to Brooklyn with this 50-seat bamboo-and-brick-clad restaurant, expected to open July 28. As at its LES counterpart, the menu consists of small plates based on Filipino and South Asian flavors. Tapas-size items like salt-and-pepper chicken wings and barbecued pork ribs make up most of the menu, along with Asian-American creations inspired by Phojanakong’s mother’s adaptive immigrant cooking, including a bunless burger with sticky rice. While the original restaurant’s name was a play on the Tagalog word kumain, meaning “to eat,” the moniker here is based on the verb for “to drink,” so expect food-friendly sakes once the liquor license clears. 433 DeKalb Ave between Classon Ave and Taaffe Pl, Bedford-Stuyvesant, Brooklyn (718-789-8806)

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