Fried oysters with corn-and-jalapeño relish at Ed's Chowder House (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)
Jeffrey Chodorow’s new project featured the aquatic skills of chef Ed Brown, who “has a master’s talent, but at Ed’s Chowder House, it mostly seems wasted,” writes Jay Cheshes in his three-star review. [TONY]
Three-star Onda raises the bar in South Street Seaport, but “the kitchen turns out a wide range of dishes that, while mostly good, suffer from inconsistency.” [TONY]
Pork belly with figs and pistachios at A Voce Columbus (Photograph: Marlene Rounds)
According to Jay Cheshes, A Voce Columbus “charms without ever trying too hard,” and garners four out of five stars. [TONY]
The Upper West Side’s farm-forward Recipe gets four stars for being a neighborhood restaurant that serves “reasonably priced, homespun dishes that are executed with sophistication.” [TONY] Read more »
Lobster Thermidor at Monkey Bar. Photograph: Donna Alberico/The New York Times/Redux
Jay Cheshes awards three stars to Graydon Carter’s exclusive Monkey Bar, writing that while “the food under [chef Larry] Forgione is much improved…the coddled clientele doesn’t come here for a dining adventure.” [TONY]
Bark Hot Dogs is a four-star neighborhood favorite, serving a wiener that’s “everything a hot dog should be.” [TONY]
Daurade served tableside at Oceana; Photograph: Jeffrey Gurwin
Jay Cheshes casts his line into the relocated Oceana and only comes up with three stars, writing, “The kitchen fares best when it sticks to the basics.” [TONY]
At the two-star Pan-Latin Agua Dulce, the generic food “is as inauthentic as it is spread geographically thin.” [TONY] Read more »
Did you go to Il Buco’s sixth annual “Sagra del Maiale” pig roast and 15th-anniversary celebration? If you didn’t, you missed succulent pork on a gloriously clear day. We were there at 2am the night before the event to capture chef Ignacio Mattos and his five-strong team roasting two pigs using the infernillo (literally “little hell”) technique, building a fire above and below the pig. But we’ll let Mattos explain it in his own words in the video. We also spoke to founder of EcoFriendly Foods and supplier to many New York restaurants, Bev Eggleston, about the Ossabaw pig and how his company rears them. Vegetarians, please look away; everyone else, tuck a napkin into your collar and enjoy.
Burger with bacon, Gruyère, a fried egg and onion rings at Gus and Gabriel (Photograph: Lizz Kuehl)
Jay Cheshes gives three out of five stars to Michael Psilakis’s Gus and Gabriel, which serves “fatty foods rarely encountered outside the Midwest. Much of it is delicious, and nearly all of it is obscene.” [TONY]
Laut in Union Square gets three stars, but the trick to eating the best dishes is to focus on what the restaurant “does best—Malaysian cuisine.” [TONY] Read more »
Cake with syrup-soaked peaches at Civetta (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)
Civetta in Little Italy is a “soulless sophomore venture” from Sfoglia’s Ron and Colleen Suhanosky, which Jay Cheshes grants a mere two out of five stars. [TONY]
Williamsburg’s Sui Ren Izakaya gets three out of five stars for its booze-friendly Japanese food, though “many of the more creative small plates fell short.” [TONY]
We give four stars to Brooklyn Bowl, where the “cooking and cocktails are leagues above the competition.” [TONY] Read more »
Sunday is just round the corner, folks, and we don’t want you heading into the weekend without a plan for brunch. Granted, you could just peruse our epic roundup of the city’s best morning meals, but you’re a recessionary New Yorker…isn’t it time you learned to DIY? Glenn Harris, executive chef and co-owner of Jane and The Smith, thinks so. Check out his egg-poaching tutorial—combined with Perilla’s Bloody Mary, you’ve got Prune without the wait. Kind of.
As always, should you prefer things the old-fashioned way, you can check out the illustrated how-to here. And if you’re feeling ambitious, you can comb through our full illustration and video archives. Do let us know how things go.
New York strip steak at Prime Meats. (Photograph: Roberto De Luna)
Jay Cheshes heads to the three-star Prime Meats, where “top-notch ingredients speak for themselves.” [TONY]
Blanca Rincon makes fresh pasta in the dining room of Spina, and while “the fruits of her labor are phenomenal,” they’re worth only two stars when “muddled by poor sauces.” [TONY] Read more »
Jay Cheshes takes a scathing survey of five gastro-clubs: Hotel Griffou is “strictly style over substance”; nearly all of LevantEast’s menu is “poorly executed”; the “comedy of errors” at The Gates is far from amusing; the eats are “hit-or-miss” at Ward III; and “the food was a snooze” at The Mott. [TONY] Read more »
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