Veal with sweetbreads at SD26 (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)

San Domenico’s Tony May has passed the family torch to his daughter Marisa at the new SD26, writes Jay Cheshes, who awards the restaurant four stars. It’s “enormous, modern and frenetic—the opposite of its stuffy forerunner.” [TONY]

Three-star Russian chain Mari Vanna “trades in both pre- and post-Soviet kitsch,” but “you pay for the spectacle as much as for the food.” [TONY]

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PDT has debuted another haute dog, this one designed by Eleven Madison Park’s Daniel Humm. It’s a deep-fried frank with gruyere and black truffle mayo. [NYT/The Moment]

Does Padma-proximity make you tongue-tied? The Atlantic steps in with these guidelines on how act around food celebrities. (hint: they probably don’t want your panties). [The Atlantic]

Bad news for Sumo wrestlers: The Japanese government has set waist size regulations for people over 40. [A Fork in the Road]

Emeril Legasse may be planning a television comeback. [Food Network Addict via Eat Me Daily]

Southwest Porch in warmer times

Good news for office drones sick their midday Pret A Manger: A winterized Southwest Porch, the ‘wichcraft pop-up cafe that unfurled its yellow umbrellas in Bryant Park last June, will reopen for the season on November 19. The cool-weather SP will feature a new menu and fall cocktails, including a peppermint-schnapps-spiked hot chocolate. The restaurant is open for both lunch and dinner, and is outfitted with electrical outlets and Wi-Fi. Should the fire pit and heaters not keep the midtown winds at bay, there will be slankets (slankets!!) available for your use.—Julia Fleming

We’re not sure about you, but this week’s food-and-beer pairing tutorial with Beer Table’s Justin Philips has got us jonesing for some good grub and good brews (preferably both at the same time). But one question remains: Is brunch too early for beers?

Not according to Jimmy’s No. 43 (43 E 7th St between Second and Third Aves; 212-982-300, jimmysno43.com): This Sunday from 1 to 3pm, the East Village beer haven hosts a book signing and beer-pairing brunch ($55; reservations recommended) with Christina Perozzi and Hallie Beaune, authors of The Naked Pint: An Unadulterated Guide to Craft Beer. As you might guess from the venue, the menu focuses on local slow foods and craft suds—expect courses like Russ & Daughters‘ smoked salmon paired with Kostritzer Black Lager, and a bacon-and-beer pasta alongside Duvel’s Maredsous 6.

If you’re feeling intimidated by a situation involving “beer sommeliers,” don’t be—the spirit of the event is learning, so newbies and beer geeks alike are welcome. As long as you brush up on the basics with our quick and easy Beer 101 lesson, you should have no trouble keeping up with the Naked gals as they discuss the pairing choices.

(Photo: Heami Lee)

Please direct your attention over to our stylish big sisters over in TONY’s shopping section.

They’ve gathered some of the finest flasks for debaucherous types of every stripe. We’re partial to the card deck–hooch holder hybrid—the better to combine our vices.

James Beard Award–winning sommelier Jean-Luc Le Dû shares his sipping savvy at this seminar and tasting designed for aspiring wine collectors. Pick up tips on how to decant properly and more. Guests can get a head start on their cellars with 10 percent off the eight bottles that will be poured. Le Dû’s Wines, 600 Washington St between Leroy and Morton Sts (212-924-6999). 6:30–8pm, $85.

See all drinking events this week

Mix maven Audrey Saunders, who is currently opening a bar in L.A., on cocktail culture: ““We need to get back to a point where things are fun again.… We kind of got really heavy.” [Diners' Journal]

In other cocktail news, mai tais are apparently experiencing a resurgence. [The Atlantic]

Ever in the service of its readers, Grub Street shares news of a super-secret underground bar but reveals neither its name nor its location. Related. [Grub Street]

Exciting rumor of the week: Drew Nieporent may be opening a restaurant with the gang from L.A.’s Animal in the old Mai House space. [Eater NY]

Photos: Caroline Voagen Nelson

Last night, many of New York’s best chefs and food-world heavyweights headed over to the French Culinary Institute to mark the cooking school’s 25th anniversary. The event started with a panel discussion about the past, present and future of French cooking, led by FCI founder Dorothy Cann Hamilton, and featuring Jacques Pepin, Andre Soltner, Drew Nieporent, Michael Batterberry and Eric Ripert. Read more »

Yes, New York City is the center of the world. But we’ve heard rumors of a food-friendly civilization just across the Hudson. Here to chronicle the edibles in Jersey City and Hoboken is Adam Robb of Chilltown Lunch.

Grand tasting benefits aren’t limited to the isle of Manhattan. Charity sometimes stretches farther than the MTA can reach—to Hoboken, for instance. After the jump, TONY fills you in on two upcoming events just a PATH ride away.

The trek to Hoboken is mercifully short, but for Gotham snobs it seems a world away. One compelling reason to close the gap: tonight’s 22nd annual Taste of Hoboken event. TOH will feature bites from 50 local restaurants, none of which you can find in your beloved Manhattan. Neighborhood bean roaster Kobrick’s Coffee will be dispensing fragrant joe, and the Beard-nominated South American eatery Cucharamama will be turning out tapas all night. The event, going down at Stevens Institute of Technology, benefits the Hoboken YMCA. And because everything is cheaper outside Gotham, the three-hour event costs just $60 (an additional $20 gets you access to a champagne-soaked preview). Tickets will be available at the door. Read more »

It’s upon us: Danny Meyer’s Maialino opens tomorrow, and the reservation line (212-777-2410) is working. For anyone who wants to go soon, you’d better get dialing.