Last night the Feed commandeered a four-top for dinner at Danny Meyer’s latest, Maialino. In our experience, with the exception of Eleven Madison Park, the impact of a Meyer meal lies in its consistency and accessibility, rather than complex flavor pairings or boundary-pushing technique. Our meal here was certainly in step with those Union Square Hospitality Group hallmarks—an unimpeachable veal chop with glossy turnips was simple and straightforward; swordfish, presented under a web of wispy fennel fronds, offered a clear and subtle flavor profile.

But there were hiccups. too. Paccheri, with its unfussy dressing of black pepper and guanciale, arrived undercooked; ditto the bucatini all’Amatriciana. Granted, with just a few dinner services under its belt, the place is still in its suckling phase, so these kinds of glitches are to be expected. And with the dining room at capacity by 8pm (even tables in the buzzy bar area were commodities), we have a feeling she’ll pull through.

Related: Slide show: Maialino nears readiness