Veal with sweetbreads at SD26 (Photograph: Virginia Rollison)
San Domenico’s Tony May has passed the family torch to his daughter Marisa at the new SD26, writes Jay Cheshes, who awards the restaurant four stars. It’s “enormous, modern and frenetic—the opposite of its stuffy forerunner.” [TONY]
Three-star Russian chain Mari Vanna “trades in both pre- and post-Soviet kitsch,” but “you pay for the spectacle as much as for the food.” [TONY]
“Aureole, as the New York expression goes, is meh,” says Sam Sifton, dropping Charlie Palmer’s relocated and expanded restaurant to one star. [NYT]
Missy Robbins is praised by Adam Platt in his three-star review: “The real revelation at the new A Voce [Columbus] is the cooking.” [NYMag]
Alan Richman is flummoxed by the technology at SD26—”either convoluted/newfangled or fresh/contemporary, depending on your sensibility”—but concedes “dinner, by the way, was fine.” [GQ]
“You’d do well to make a meal of apps” at Abe & Arthur’s. “Not that the mains aren’t also good—they’re just not a good deal,” writes Robert Sietsema. [VV]
Ryan Sutton gives three stars to A Voce Columbus, where “[Missy] Robbins is to thank for the regional Italian fare, while owner Marlon Abela is to blame for the corporate Italian environment,” and three stars to SD26: “Rabid consumers of Italian food will be happy that Odette Fada (late of San Domenico) is back in the kitchen dishing out fare that’s as good as, if not better, than A Voce’s.” [Bloomberg]
“Tables for Two” suggests the best strategy at Frank Castronovo and Frank Falcinelli’s Prime Meats is “to stand at the bar, watch the focus brought to creating cocktails, and wonder if similar care could usefully be applied to the cooking.” [New Yorker]
Steve Cuozzo tries 11 burgers in the Meatpacking District and declares The Standard Grill the gold standard: “Juice oozed from every pore of beef, pink-purple throughout and with flavor that never quit.” [NYP]
The Insatiable Critic says while it is “picking up steam now, SD26 remains a thoughtful work in progress.” [Insatiable Critic]
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