A rear delicacy

“Shit.” It wasn’t the most interesting thing Anthony Bourdain said in the course of his conversation yesterday with former New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni, but it was the first. The question that prompted the response? What does a warthog’s rectum taste like, of course. It was a quip most worthy of a rim shot, but not the last of the night’s one-liners.

Last night’s TimesTalk was not a dialogue with the outspoken chef and author. Rather, the Travel Channel promo that opened the evening set the tone: Last night was a highlight reel. The stink of durian? “Like custard in a lavatory.” Fallacies about foie gras? “Ducks or geese live better than anything the colonel has ever served.” On angst over wanting to agree with Alice Waters? “It’s like having Alec Baldwin on your side in a political debate.” Rachael Ray: “She sent me a fruit basket and I’m just not talking shit about her anymore.” On wanting to turn his daughter off McDonald’s: He’s going to tell her the clown has cooties and is “implicated in the disappearance of children.” When asked about the closing of Gourmet, Bourdain said, “Life isn’t going to be any smarter, that’s for sure.”

Bourdain uses humor to engage the audience, but he also knows what to do once he has their attention. He took an opportunity to endorse Scott Bryant and Wylie Dufresne, who he named New York’s most underrated chefs. Talking about the next season of No Reservations, he chose to repudiate Burma, refusing to go as it would only promote tourism. But he would keep bringing attention to the Congo because “he’s pissed about the Belgians.”

“I will do everything I can to be a good guest,” Bourdain claimed as his one commandment on No Reservations. Let’s just hope he won’t have to shit.—Adam Robb