Guest blogger Liz Thorpe of Murray’s Cheese, author of the forthcoming book The Cheese Chronicles and all around fine-foods guru gives you, dear readers, a guide to the best of tomorrow’s Good Beer drinkfest, sponsored by Edible Brooklyn at BAM:

A mayor-sanctioned gathering with quality beers and the noshes that complement them is more than enough reason to hit BAM Wednesday. But as is the case with many tasting events, with so may choices, filler and long lines, it pays to be selective. Below, a list of vendors to be sure to hit, and why.

The only non-American beer on the block: Beer Table is pouring the perfectly suited-to-summer-beer, gueuze (Belgian lambic with zero bitterness and lots of tang). Lean and bracingly tart, it’s got a surprisingly creamy finish. When Justin Philips described it as a light wheat beer with coriander, I’ll admit it—I thought about Hoegaarden. It’s not like that. It’s actually lacto-fermented with salt (crazy!) so you wind up with what he calls yogurt beer. The briny brew is compulsively swillable with one of the 750 jalapeño-dusted pickled eggs they’ll be handing out, amping up the egg’s sweetness and tamping down the bitter flavors in the hot pepper. You’re left with acidity and warming heat. It rocks.

Fish with beer, with beer: What I’m digging is the gueuze ceviche. Yes. gueuze again. The guys at Rosewater figured the hyperhigh acidity of the limited-edition Ommegang Rouge—a spontaneously fermented Flemish sour ale that spends a year and a half aging in an oak cask—might function like citrus and cook a thin slice of fish. I can only guess how this pairing will taste, because the beer is a limited-edition keg-only brew, but the Rosewater brain trust makes an awfully good case for it. They say that the tart green-apple aroma and sour-cherry notes promise not to overwhelm the ceviche—Montauk fluke marinated in geuze, a bit of lime juice, cilantro, japaleño and a smear of avocado. It might come on toasted bread, but I recommend eating the delicate fish on its own and getting your wheat in the beer.

Umami: Many a craving has led me to The Good Fork for their signature pork-and-chive dumplings. This week, they’ll be at BAM. Do not make the mistake of dodging the soy-sesame dipping sauce because you think it will be messy. It will be, but deal with it. It’s key here, with aggressively fermented flavor and a heady dose of salt, both of which marry swimmingly with Blue Point Toasted Lager. When slightly warm, the brew is rich and honeyed, and you get doughy/meaty, almost meadlike beer.—Liz Thorpe

See a complete list of participants here.