Thomas Keller talks about the flow of food through the Per Se kitchen.

Last night, Culinary Insiders, the organization that provides behind-the-scenes access to restaurants throughout the city, held a special cocktail reception and kitchen tour at Per Se hosted by the man himself, Thomas Keller. The $195-per-ticket evening—members paid $175—included passed hors d’œuvres, such as Keller’s signature salmon tartare cornets, mini “BLTs,” lobster with grapefruit and desserts; two buffet spreads stocked with cheeses, cured meats, breads, smoked fish and a variety of vegetables; and free-flowing Charles Heidsieck champagne, sidecar cocktails and tastes of Cointreau Noir on ice, all courtesy of Remy Martin. But the best part of this very special evening: a guided tour of the Per Se kitchen with the maestro himself.

Keller made multiple passes of the in-service inner sanctum with small groups of curious—and sometimes drunken—onlookers. He discussed the division of labor in the kitchen, the flow of plates in and out of the space (all cleared dishes are presented to the chef before going to the dishwasher, allowing him to inspect what people are and aren’t eating, a common practice in many high-end kitchens) and his perfectionist philosophy.

A few key details not found in most kitchens, even of this caliber: a flat-screen television displays a live feed from the French Laundry kitchen, so that both crews can see and even talk to each other while they work (according to Keller it’s to foster a larger sense of family among staff members, though we’re sure he doesn’t mind keeping an eye on his employees while he’s away). There are signs below the clocks that say “Sense of Urgency,” and another above the doorway to the dining room that defines the word “Finesse” (if Keller weren’t so disarmingly friendly, some of these touches could seem a little Orwellian).

Keller, in an amazingly perceptive move, has no walk-in refrigerators, which tend to be prone to disorder since they are used communally and no one has full ownership or responsibility for them (the individual refrigerators his chefs use instead are pristine proof of how right he is).

For more snapshots from the evening, scroll through the slide show.