A Razor, A Shiny Knife’s much talked-about Grant Achatz and Thomas Keller tribute dinner unfolded this weekend. The 20-course experiment (a “bargain” at $300) was inspired by the superchefs’ $1,500-a-head bacchanal at Per Se last month. (Later in the post, we check in with half of the evening’s inspiration—Grant Achatz himself—to get his take on the proceedings.) Sure, aping the works of two of the country’s most lauded toques requires a certain level of cockiness confidence. But ARASK’s attempt felt more deferential than presumptuous, particularly when presented by ringleader Mike Cirino, whose jocular trips over French menu descriptions were received warmly by this young, willing crowd.

You have to admire ARASK’s dedication to accuracy: Approximations of Achatz’s famously studied serving ware included paraffin bowls fashioned for the signature Hot Potato-Cold Potato dish, and pronged tempura cradles (a touch more crude than the genuine article) were improvised from a block of wood and some thick gauge wire. Given their constraints—a basic Brooklyn kitchen, a small company of cooks that included muscle from Quality Meats and Corton—we were impressed at the resulting meal, even if some of the more bold presentations didn’t coalesce (that sweet-potato tempura, for example, slid like melted ice cream from its cinnamon stick vessel). But enough from us. Let’s hear what Achatz had to say.

Generally speaking, how do you feel about the ARASK event? Does it strike you as an honor?
I think the idea of re-creating these dinners is ambitious, aggressive and over-the-top. All attributes I happen to love. I hope it informs people.

The fact is, cooking at this level, in this style and incorporating elements of design is flat-out not easy. We have 25 chefs in the kitchen every night at Alinea. All of them execute this food for 16 hours a day. They live and breathe Alinea and everything that it stands for. We work closely with Martin Kastner at Crucial Detail to design the service pieces to hold and serve the food in the ideal way. A tremendous amount of time, resources and talent goes into this every day.

Ideally this exercise shows people that there is great value in what we and other high-end restaurants provide. It is not something that is easily replicated. If it were…it would cease to be special…and I would be out of a job.

Did you find it at all presumptuous?
I would if they thought they were going to show people how easy it was to do, and position it as “Why are there guys charging $1,500 per person for this stuff when a bunch of amateurs can pull it off?”

But from what I can tell, Cirino is a genuine guy that is doing this for all the right reasons—reasons that I really respect. He is trying to have fun, while challenging himself with his hands and his mind. I haven’t met him yet…but I like the guy already. Makes me want to get everyone from Alinea together and build a skyscraper or something.… Hmm…now there is a team-building exercise!

Was it also a good opportunity to see your book put to use?
Ironically, not too many of the dishes in the menu are in the book. Most of the techniques certainly are. They are certainly being creative in their own way. They have budget constraints, plating limitations, equipment and space issues that all force creative solutions. How can you not applaud that?

We’re curious about your communication with the club: How did you feel when they reached out to you?
At first, honestly, the whole thing didn’t put me off, but I was cautious. I didn’t know anything about Mike, or the intent and the dinners. I figured it would be an attempt to make fun of the economics of the events, or try to discredit the cookbook by deeming it impossible to cook from. After I learned more from various people that I knew, that are also connected to him, I figured it was a legit attempt.

As you can see in these photos, ARASK went to pains to realize and re-create some of your ideas. Any thoughts?
The Hot Potato is a rock-star effort. Complete with wax bowls even…nicely done! I think he should come and stage at Alinea for a couple days before his next dinner.… I might be able to show him a few tricks.