Our own Michael Freidson was chomping at the bit to try the NYC stint of Top Chef’s victorious Hung Huynh, at the rabbi-approved Solo. Read and learn:

“Oh my God, is that Hung? No, it’s just a waiter—same hair, though.”

“Wait, there’s Tom Colicchio! No, another waiter. Bald.”

Forgive us religious Jews if we seem particularly celeb-whorey this week. The biggest star at most kosher restaurants is the moshiach, so having Top Chef winner Hung Huynh take over as head chef at Solo—even if it’s just for a month—is a big deal. So how did his first night go?

Walking in for one of the last reservations of the evening, we found tables filled with yarmulke-topped men, some young, some old, all on dates. Perfectly normal, though we couldn’t help thinking: What is Hung doing here? Solo has always looked like an upscale Chinese joint in Boca Raton, with its pastel walls and etched-glass doors. The food’s always been decent, but nothing compared with sister restaurant The Prime Grill. And it’s in midtown—not exactly a scene.

Yet Hung infuses a bit of glamour into the Asian-fusion menu. His special appetizer—seared squares of tuna with an avocado reduction and yellow tomato vinaigrette (pictured), came together only after we tasted all the elements in one bite (the dish pairs perfectly with a smoothie-like lychee martini). The chicken pad thai starter, on the other hand, didn’t work at all—diced carrots and yellow peppers were undercooked; by the time we chewed them down to a swallowable consistency, the chicken was sheer mush. (Yes, the show has made Padmas of us all.)

Hung rallied with the entrées, however: The cowboy steak—a huge Flintstones-worthy slab of beef—was cooked a perfect medium-rare with a well-seasoned crust. The Dover sole with a balsamic soy reduction topped with broccollini (the little bastards that got CJ kicked off!) was springy and light. (How am I doing, Tom?)

Did anything make us go “wow"? That steak had us nodding. But the folks at my table got most excited when, halfway through the meal, Hung popped out of the kitchen, flanked by a group of men in suits. We caught his eye and asked him: What was the greatest challenge of the first night? The pace? The pressure? “The rabbis,” he said, looking like someone was about to tell him to pack his knives and go. Dude’s going to fit right in at shul.

Solo, 550 Madison Ave between 54th and 55th Sts (212-833-7800)