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    BIN 36 celebrates 10 years and shifts to U.S. cheeses

    Posted in Restaurants and bars by Amy Carr on September 11th, 2009 at 1:59 pm

    480cheese

    Sipping wine while nibbling on rosemary-coated Manchego cheese from Spain and a truffle-infused pecorino from Tuscany doesn’t sound boring to me, but BIN 36 executive chef John Caputo and fromager Antonio Ramirez are ready for something different. After 10 years of serving diners a spectacular array of international cheeses, BIN 36 will offer only American-produced cheeses beginning later this month.

    “We’ve offered cheese from around the world,” Caputo said at a party celebrating the restaurant’s 10th anniversary this week. “I’ve kind of gotten bored with that. We going to be offering 50 cheeses from all around the U.S.”

    Caputo’s not the only local chef paying tribute to American cheese. Naha chef Carrie Nahabedian currently is featuring a seasonal menu of almost entirely American cheeses (including Piper’s Pyramide, a paprika-dusted goat’s milk cheese from Capriole Farm in Greenville, Indiana, and Big Ed’s raw cow’s milk cheese from Saxon Homestead Creamery in Cleveland, Wisconsin), saying, “the summer months are when America’s cheese really shines.”

    Nahabedian plans to bring back international cheeses as the seasons change, but BIN 36 is looking at a more long-term menu shift. Still, fans of the restaurant’s front-of-the-house cheese bar needn’t worry about quality—Ramirez and Caputo have outdone themselves in finding some of the best fromage from the American artisanal cheese boom.

    BIN 36 General Manager Dan Sachs, partner James Terlizzi and Wine Director Brian Duncan celebrate 10 years.

    General Manager Dan Sachs, partner James Terlizzi and Wine Director Brian Duncan celebrate 10 years of BIN 36.

    Caputo had no doubt they’d be able to craft a menu comprised completely of American cheeses, but mourned the loss of the Italian Robiola–a creamy blend of sheep and goat milk that has been a menu favorite for years. After an extensive search, however, they found a woman with 12 goats in rural Knoxville, Iowa, who gives the Italians a run for their money. Of the dozen cheeses I tried the other night, my hands-down favorite was the Robiola di Mia Nonna from the Iowa “micro-dairy,” Reichart’s Dairy Air.

    I also couldn’t get enough of the Barely Buzzed Cheddar (a holdover from the current menu) from Beehive Cheese Co. in Uintah, Utah. Ramirez had me taste the cheese without the rind first, then cut a small piece that had been coated in espresso and lavender and asked me to taste it followed by a sip of the BIN 36 pinot noir. He leaned in and eagerly waited for my reaction. “What do you get? It’s a very common breakfast experience, yes?” Indeed, my mouth was filled with the unmistakable taste of a mocha cappuccino. That a bite of cheese and a sip of wine can produce such a surprising change in flavors speaks to why BIN 36’s simple, elegant formula has served it well for a decade–which qualifies as a milestone in the rocky waters of the restaurant biz.

    “We’ve got a 13,000-square-foot adult playground for food and wine,” general manager Dan Sachs said. “We’ve only just begun.”

    Tags: Bin 36, Carrie Nahabedian, John Caputo, Naha
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    1 comment
    1. Posted by Liz on September 11th, 2009 at 4:51 pm

      Yum. I have been thinking about cheese since I heard about this!

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