Here at Eat Out, we make a big deal out of giving restaurants a chance to get their feet on the ground before reviewing them. But when a menu like Jam’s comes into my in-box, it’s hard to wait around. The new early-bird (that is, breakfast and lunch only) restaurant from Jeri Suqi and chef Jeffrey Mauro is touting food like their Jamburger, two patties slathered with smoked tomato sauce and butterkasse cheese and topped with a fried egg. And that’s a burger I can’t wait a month to try.

So today I rolled into Jam for lunch and discovered that on only their fifth day of business, things seem to be off to a good start. That burger is solid, and there’s an even better sandwich on the menu. It’s comprised of meaty pork cheeks, soft ricotta, another fried egg and fresh, sour plums, and though that sounds like an odd combination, the ingredients harmonize like Boys II Men. Also notable: a simple asparagus soup paired with peach sour cream. The fruit’s sweet tang marries with the vegetable surprisingly well.

Of course, my colleagues and I will be back to Jam in a few weeks to give it a proper fair shake. But assuming the food gets even better (as I expect it to), it might be a good idea to hit the joint up before the the official reviews start rolling out. With a small capacity and enticing morning options (malted custard French toast), this is the kind of the spot that deserves the two-hour wait for brunch.