In our very first issue of TOC three years ago, we dubbed Martial Noguier the most underrated chef in the city, and for whatever reason, the one sixtyblue  vet still seems a bit overlooked. Now, Noguier is aiming to change that, and after almost eight years of drawing diners to the westernmost point of Randolph’s restaurant strip, he’s leaving his post for the position of executive chef of Sofitel. "Michael Jordan [one sixtyblue's owner] is a wonderful person, and one of the reasons I stayed so long," Noguier says. "But it’s now time for me to go." Where he’ll go is the kitchen of Café des Architectes, one of the few hotel restaurants in Chicago that has never quite stuck with locals as a dining destination the likes of NoMI, Avenues or The Ritz Cafe. "But there is this potential there," Noguier insists. "It is a French hotel—and of course I am French so this is perfect—with a comfortable dining room, not too upscale so it’s perfect for me to do what I want to do, which is real, simple French food made with local ingredients. No one is doing that." He goes on to rhapsodize about bringing light and fresh Southern French food to the city ("like you would see in Nice") via dishes like bouillabaisse and roasted rabbit accented with produce and fresh herbs from Green City Market farmers. Noguier’s last day at one sixtyblue will be September 6, and he has only a couple of weeks to find his replacement. His Sofitel gig kicks off October 1, but the excited chef is already looking toward next year with even bigger plans. "There is talk of a restaurant renovation in 2009, and I’m definitely looking forward to making use of Sigale [the other Sofitel dining room currently only used for special events]. But really my hope for this is to do what I do best, work with local farmers to create great food and something that Chicago will love."

one sixtyblue. 1400 W Randolph St between Ada St and Ogden Ave (312-850-0303). El: Green, Pink to Ashland. Bus: 9, 20 (24hrs), 65. Dinner (closed Sun). Average main course: $25.

Café des Architectes. 20 E Chestnut St at Wabash Ave (312-324-4000). El: Red to Chicago. Bus: 36, 66 (24hrs), 143, 144, 145, 146, 147, 148, 151 (24hrs). Breakfast, brunch (Sat, Sun), lunch, dinner. Average main course: $24.