Boy, John Mariani sure knows how to pick ‘em.

Butter, the West Loop restaurant the Esquire dining critic deemed one of America’s "Best New Restaurants" in 2005, has closed as of Saturday night’s service. We always hate to see a restaurant fail, but we can’t help but say we’re not surprised. Even when chef Ryan Poli was at the helm—back in Butter’s heyday when Mariani was under fire (2nd item; first item may be NSFW) for his unethical ways—we never really could understand what all the fuss was about. Poli’s a nice guy, but the food always seemed to have unrealized potential, coming close to memorable but just not able to seal the deal. And when Really Nice Restaurants (Nick’s Fishmarket, The Clubhouse) bought Butter from Jason Chan about a year ago, Ryan Poli left and was replaced by his sous chef Lee Wolen. Our dinner there about six months ago was, to put it nicely, disappointing. But then again, we were dining anonymously and paying for the meal, so perhaps the revelation that Mariani experienced was lost on us.

Butter will continue to hold private events through the end of 2007, but is now closed to the public. 130 S Green St between Adams and Monroe Sts.