Though it earned its reputation as a German stronghold in the ’50s, Lincoln Square has slowly but surely been losing its German-ness over the last few years. It’s not just that my ancestral peeps have been heading for the ‘burbs as stroller-pushing Crate and Barrellers have taken up residence, but delis and restaurants have bit the dust one by one. (Brauhaus is holding strong, but the mediocre food and plastic alpine hats are more Griswald-Euro-vacation than true kraut.)

Therefore, this past Sunday was one of the saddest for Lincoln Square when Delicatessen Meyer closed its doors forever.

Gone are the bottles of Stiegl lemon beer, the Bavarian pretzels, the rows of pfeffernuesse cookies and imported meats sliced-to-order by thick-palmed, thick-accented German women. This German gem was successfully run by Klaus and Renate Koetke from 1956 to 2004, when they sold it to Hans Liebl. We couldn’t get Liebl on the horn, but public record shows that foreclosure proceedings have already started on the deli and a reputable source told us that upon making a delivery last week, a purveyor was paid with a meat slicer for currency; it’s enough to put a tear in even the hardiest highlander’s stein.

But with the bad news, we bring you good: John Hosticka, owner of Lincoln Quality Meat Market (4661 N Lincoln Ave, 773-561-4570) since 1985, has stepped up and said he will start carrying many of the German products that used to be found at Meyer. “I didn’t carry them before because we never wanted to compete with each other,” Hosticka says. “We actually always sent customers to each other to get them whatever they needed, but now I’m just trying to keep people coming to Lincoln Square that have been coming for years. We don’t want to lose them.”

Just today Hosticka was bringing in Stiglmeier cold cuts, Black Forest and Westphalian ham, veal bratwurst and leberkase loaves. A phone call was in to the bakery that supplies Meyer with those killer Bavarian pretzels, and orders have been placed for popular German dry goods, meaning you’ll be able to get your marzipan or real deal gummy bear fix anytime now. As for the Stiegl lemon soda beer, we’re leaning pretty hard on Fine Wine Brokers across the street to start stocking it, but even if they do, it’ll never be the same as getting our change along with a true “danke schoen.”

Photo courtesy of Doug Oldham at dmogalleries.com